The first time I ever heard about taco rice I didn’t have much information to go on other than “yeah, duh, that sounds amazing. I would like to have that now, please.”

As usual, I wasn’t entirely paying attention and when it came time to try making it for the first time, I missed a few essential details.

Taco rice is one of those magical, confusing dishes that results from a bunch of ideas all jumbled up and served on one plate. It’s origin is Japanese – Okinawan, specifically – with influence from a bunch of taco-craving American GIs based on the island. It came up in the most recent episode of Anthony Bourdain’s Parts Unknown, and it was only then that I understood. Says Bourdain: “This unholy, greasy, starchy, probably really unhealthy delight, a booze-mop-turned-classic, caught on big time.”

In short, what I thought was taco rice was not taco rice at all. Taco rice is a layered thing – spiced, fried ground meat on top of white rice, with lettuce and tomatoes and cheese on top of that. Taco fried rice is unholy in its own way, the kind of thing you would make if you were drunk in your kitchen late at night, or if it was the 1950s. It’s exotic! Except it’s not.

It’s comfort food and you should be comfortable when you eat it.

So, here’s my misinterpretation of taco rice. What is authenticity anyway?

Taco fried rice

(Makes 4 servings.)

• 3 tbsp. canola oil
• 1 onion, finely chopped
• 3 celery stalks, halved lengthwise and then diced
• 1 red bell pepper, diced
• 1 jalapeño pepper, seeded and finely chopped
• 6 garlic cloves, chopped
• 1 cup corn kernels (fresh or frozen)
• 1 lb. ground pork
• 1 tbsp. chili powder
• 2 tsp. ground cumin
• 2 tsp. smoked paprika
• 1 tsp. ground black pepper
• 1/2 tsp. ground coriander
• 1/2 tsp. dried oregano
• 2 tbsp. soy sauce
• 1 tbsp. rice vinegar
• 3 cups cooked rice
• 2 cups prepared salsa (either homemade or store-bought)
• 1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro

In a large pan or Dutch oven over medium heat, saute onion, celery, bell pepper, jalapeño pepper, and corn until colours have brightened, about two minutes. Add garlic and cook for another two minutes, stirring occasionally until veggies have just begun to soften.

Crumble the ground pork into the pan. Add chili powder, cumin, paprika, black pepper, coriander, and oregano to the pan, and stir, breaking up the pork with a wooden spoon as you go. Cook for about five minutes, until pork is cooked through and the pan appears dry on the bottom.

Add soy sauce and rice vinegar, and stir to combine. Add rice. Stir again.

Add salsa, and stir. Cook for another three minutes, until most of the liquid in the pan has disappeared. Taste, adjusting seasonings as needed. Stir in cilantro and serve with accompaniments.

Accompaniments:

• Shredded cabbage
• Sliced tomatoes
• Diced avocado
• Thinly sliced jalapeño peppers
• Shredded cheddar cheese
• Hot sauce, such as Tapatio or Cholula